Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Frico: Parmesan Cheese Crackers


One of the wonderful little antipasto inventions is the frico from the northeastern region of Italy known as Friuli-Venezia Giulia.  A frico is nothing more than a crisp-fried cheese wafer made with grated cheese.   Even though it is simple, it can be bit tricky to make.  Once you have made one successfully, it does seem so easy. Traditionally, the cheese used for making it is a three-month-old Montasio, a cow’s milk cheese with a buttery, creamy taste that melts very well.  Traditionally, frico is cooked in a skillet. The difficult part of making a crisp frico, what is called locally frico croccante, is knowing when to remove the wafer from the pan. If it cooks too long and becomes too golden brown, it will become bitter.  Therefore, a more fail-safe way to cook it is in the oven on parchment or a silicone baking sheet.   Montasio cheese can be found in cheese stores and gourmet markets. If you cannot find it, you can try using freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grating from a large not-dried-out chunk. I use Parmesan.  Most importantly, the cheese used for frico should be very low moisture and not too salty.  Frico can be easily shaped while right out of the oven while, still warm and malleable, for a cup for fillings. I personally like it as a garnish to a soup or salad.

Ingredients:
•    1 pound Montasio, Asagio, or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated more coarse
•    Robust herbs of your choice such as oregano, rosemary, thyme either dry or fresh (optional)
•    Fresh ground black pepper (optional)

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400F.  Line a cooking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet.  Use a round cookie cutter as a guide to put in the grated cheese.  Allow about 1 inch between the frico.  Put a thin, even layer of grated cheese in each round.  If you would like, sprinkle a small amount of herbs  on the frico.  Remember, the dried herbs will have a more concentrated flavor than the fresh herbs.  Per your preference, grate a small amount of black pepper on, too.  Place in oven.  Carefully watch.  Remove from oven once they start to turn a gold color, about 3-5 minutes, depending how much moisture is in the cheese.

The frico will be flexible while it is still hot, and if you drape it over a glass or bottle to cool and firm up you will obtain a cup or basket.  Then it is a perfect container for an antipasto.  Make sure whatever you use does not contain too much moisture.

Makes about 30 frico
Total time:  10-15 minutes

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here are sides with cheese. On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious recipes to cheese up your life:

Virtually Homemade: Easy Cheesy Enchilada (Gluten-Free)

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Green On Green Chopped Salad


Shortly after I moved out to Los Angeles, I learned that chopped salads are the standard salads here. All the greens and accompaniments are chopped into bite size pieces and tossed with the salad dressing. Angeleno chopped salads resemble more of a composed salad than the standard garden salad variety. I like them. When I went Amsterdam, I was blown away by the salads there. Amazingly fresh and tasty. No, no green bud on them, ha! My favorite salad that I ate there was an all green in color salad: green lettuce, green onions, granny smith apples, and other goodies. I decided for this week's Food Network's Sensational Sides to make a fusion of the Angeleno chopped salad meeting the Dutch green salad for a green on green chopped salad. Feel free to make this recipe yours and alter as needed or per your personal taste.

Ingredients:
1 head of green, bibb, or romaine lettuce, cleaned, dried, and cut into very thin strips
3-4 stalks of green onions, chopped finely
2 stalks of celery, diced small
1/4 cup of pistachios, chopped
1 granny smith apple, cored and chopped small
1 avocado, peeled and seeded, chopped small
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon mustard (dijon or whole grain)
1 tablespoon vinegar of your choice (make it good, but not balsamic)
1/2 teaspoon green goddess seasoning (I like Penzeys)
salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
Prep all of the lettuce, green onions, celery, pistachios, apple, and avocado by placing in a large mixing bowl and gently toss with salad tongs, but I think clean hands work the best.

In a large serving bowl, add the olive oil, mustard, vinegar, and seasonings and mix with a whisk until blended. Gently fold in the cut salad into the serving bowl with the dressing and toss very gently until it is all covered uniformly by the dressing. Taste. Add more seasonings if needed. Eat immediately. Serves about 4.

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here are salads with spring lettuces. On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious green recipes to freshen up your meal:

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Italian Style Smashed Potatoes


As an Irish girl, I love potatoes. When presented with this week's sensational sides theme of mashed, I knew was going to make potatoes. Italian smashed potatoes have become one of my favorite way to mash potatoes. It's just boiled unpeeled red potatoes with Italian parsley, a good Italian hard cheese, olive oil, salt and pepper. They go with everything. So simple. The amount of these ingredients listed below is a mere suggestion.

Ingredients:
2 pounds of red skinned potatoes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1/4 pound of really good pecorino romano or Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese, grated
salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
Rinse, clean, and cut the potatoes into roughly equivalent chunks to ensure even cooking. Place them in a medium to large sauce pot with salted water. Bring to a boil on medium high heat. Boil under fork tender, about 15 minutes. Remove about a cup of the water before draining if need when smashing.

Smash/mash drained potatoes with the olive oil. Try not to over mash them. I personally like a chunkier texture. Add some of the reserved water if you want a creamier, looser consistency. Using a spoon add and mix in the parsley, cheese, and salt and pepper. As always, season to your taste preference.

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here is anything "mashed." On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are smashing mashed other delicious recipes:

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

No-Cook Vietnamese Spring Rolls


This week's theme for FN Dish's Seasonal Sides: No-cook. My first thought was to make an Ohioan confectionery called buckeyes - think of a spherical Reese's cup. I'll save that for another time. Besides, technically, the chocolate has to be heated. Healthy has been my thing since I've been back to blogging while living in Los Angeles. I went with Vietnamese spring rolls with a spicy peanut sauce. A favorite of mine, both to make, eat, and share. It always makes for a perfect appetizer for parties. They are healthy, light, visually appealing, and there is nothing to cook: hydrated rice wrappers, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, shrimp, tofu, and herbs. (I had a couple of leftover "sea sticks" that I used to make rolls; I like shrimp + tofu best.) The only caveat is that the rice wrappers can be tricky to work with and the preparation and making of these are more like an assembly line than free-flow cooking. Everything must be ready to go when assembling these bad boys.

The sauce is one of my favorites that I usually can't get at restaurants since it's usually not gluten-free. All four taste components of Southeast Asian cuisine are there: salty (fish sauce/soy sauce); tangy (rice vinegar); spicy (chili sauce); and sweet (peanut butter/agave). This indulgent sauce is the perfect compliment to the super fresh and light rolls. Even though this technically is a side dish, I found four of these make a perfect dinner.

Ingredients:
10-12 rice paper wrappers
1 seedless cucumber (Japanese or English), finely julienned
1 large carrot, peeled and finely julienned
2 large leaves of leafy lettuce, chiffonaded finely
1/2 tub of extra firm tofu cut into strips
20-24 cooked shrimp, cut in half
fresh mint, cilantro, Thai basil (optional)
1 tablespoon smooth/creamy peanut butter
1/2 teaspoon fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon of GF tamari/soy sauce
1 teaspoon chili sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon agave

Directions:
  1. Get your mis-en-place together, i.e., prep, cut, and organize all the vegetables, tofu, shrimp, herbs on a platter/plate/board. Have another board with a damp tea towel or paper towel to assemble the rolls, and another board for the completed rolls. Also prepare a large, flat container of lukewarm water to hydrate the rice wrappers.
  2. Submerge a rice wrapper into the water. Allow to soak for half a minute. Carefully remove with both hands and lay it towards you on the wet cloth on board and make sure it's flat without any folds. My first couple tries, I always break - these can be used as practice rolls or just throw away. You'll get it after a couple of practice runs. Once the hydrated wrapper in down flat ready to assemble, submerge the next wrapper in the water.
  3. Pretend you're making a delicate burrito - stack in the bottom center portion some tofu, veggies and up towards the top, place a couple of herb leaves and two halves of a shrimp with the pretty side down in order to see it in the roll. Fold up the bottom of the wrapper over the filling snugly, fold in each side and carefully roll up until all wrapped up into a pretty roll. Place on platter. Repeat, repeat, repeat until all made. Make sure the rolls do not touch each other - they stick bad! If not serving immediately, wrap individually in plastic wrap and store in the fridge.
  4. For the peanut sauce, in a small bowl combine the peanut butter, fish sauce, tamari, chili sauce, vinegar, and agave. Taste and adjust as needed.
I hope you enjoy these as much as I do.

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here is anything "no-cook." On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious recipes to help you save energy and discover new ways to eat "raw": 

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Sitr-Fried Quinoa with Chinese Vegetables

To be honest, I never heard of quinoa (pronounced: keen-wah) before my Celiac diagnosis. After my initial consultation with a dietitian, 10 years ago, I discovered a whole new whole of (pseudo-cereal) grains that are gluten-free: quinoa, millet, buckwheat, teff, and so many others. They all have unique texture and taste as well as power-packed with nutrients. Quinoa has become one of my standbys. Quinoa is an ancient, super-food from South America. It contains about 14% protein and all of the essential amino acids your body needs, i.e, it is a complete protein. Important tip with quinoa: it must be RINSED well with water (using a fine mesh sieve/strainer) before cooking it. There's this weird smelling enzyme that coats it and can be strong and wreck your senses. It is so worth the effort.

I make quinoa up as pilafs, tabbouleh, steamed. This time, I let my fridge dictate what method to use for my quinoa love. I saw small bok choy, giant shiitake mushrooms, and green onions. I worked at a Chinese restaurant for 10 years and still influences how I shop for (shopping at Asian markets regularly) and cook my food. Yes, why not - stir-fried quinoa?! It's like the new Chinese Peruvian fusion cuisine that's becoming so hot: the Chinese immigrants from the 19th century influencing traditional Peruvian food. It worked! Such a different take on "fried rice" that feels new, healthy, interesting, reinvented. This recipe is a multi-step recipe and it's important to follow the directions in the right order for the best results. Even though this is a side dish, I will contest that this dish can stand on its own.

Ingredients:
1 cup quinoa (rinsed well with water as mentioned above)
1 1/2 cups water or broth (of your choice)
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 egg
1 tablespoon of coconut or vegetable oil (not olive oil, it will burn)
4-5 large shiitake sliced mushrooms (fresh! or regular fresh button type)
1/4 cup of Chinese cooking wine (I like the sweet kind with this)
1 medium bok choy, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2-3 stalks green onions, chopped
1 teaspoon chili sauce
about 1/4 cup of extra liquid as needed (water, broth)
salt and pepper to taste (yes, you can add soy sauce if you feel it is truly necessary)
extra sesame oil to finish as desired

Directions:
  1. Cook the rinsed quinoa in 1 1/2 times the volume of water in a covered medium saucepan over low heat until absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove lid, fluff with fork and allow to cool uncovered.
  2. Heat up wok on medium high heat. Scramble egg with a splash of water, a pinch of salt, white pepper (if you have it) in a small bowl or cup with a fork. Put sesame oil in hot wok, swirl. Pour in egg, swirl and cook it as a thin layer without getting brown. Turn over once until just barely cooked. Cut heat. Cut into small strips/pieces and put in a cool bowl/plate and put aside.
  3. In that same wok heat up the coconut oil over medium-high heat. Add in sliced mushrooms and saute. Add in the wine, stirring constantly. Allow to get a good brown to them - good flavor. Add in the white parts of the bok choy, green onions, garlic, and chili sauce. Saute until those are slightly cooked down. Then add in the green sections of the bok choy and green onions with stirring. Once wilted, add in the quinoa. Stir, stir, stir. Add in liquid as needed if too dry. Trust your judgement. Taste for seasoning. Adjust salt, pepper, heat per your preferences. Cut the heat. Add in the scrambled egg and toss. Toss in a little sesame oil. Enjoy. Serves 4 healthy portions.
-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here are  "grains." On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious recipes to tempt you to expand your grain horizons:

Jeanette's Healthy Living: Chinese Shrimp Fried Rice
Devour: Farro Salad With Greek Yogurt
Dishin & Dishes: Kale, Quinoa and Black Bean Salad
The Cultural Dish: Lemon Risotto

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Asparagus with Rosemary


In my mind, anything roasted is sensational. Roasted potatoes with rosemary remains a standard in my culinary repertoire for many years. As a new Angeleno, I love to go to at least one farmer's market a week. The produce in Southern California blows my mind. This week I picked up a tiny bag of fingerling potatoes and a beautiful bunch of asparagus from the same vendor. Why not roast them together? Asparagus can hold their own against roasting and rosemary, just not the same time in the oven as potatoes. And the rosemary I was able to source from my yard. Really, it's impossible to over roast the potatoes. I love them on the crispy side. Only about five minutes is needed to roast the asparagus. Note on the potatoes: don't be tempted to use the red-skinned ones, they have too much sugar - will not cook up right in the oven and will burn.

Ingredients:
  • 1 pound fingerling potatoes
  • 1 bunch asparagus, fibrous ends removed
  • 2 tablespoons good olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary

Directions:
  1. Heat up oven to 375F. Clean, dry, and cut the fingerlings in half lengthwise. In a baking pan, combine the cut fingerlings, olive oil, and salt. Arrange the fingerlings cut side up. This way there's no need to turn them while cooking. Allow to turn golden brown, about 15-25 minutes.
  2. Remove from oven. Cut the asparagus into ~2" segments on only the tender part. Toss in the pepper and rosemary, and more salt if need to taste. Again, arrange the fingerlings cut side up. Return to oven for about 5 minutes until the asparagus are very deep green. Remove and serve. Makes about 4 servings.
I reccommend serving this side with roasted salmon. Why not keep to the theme?

-Erin Swing
 The Sensitive Epicure.

 This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here is  "roasted." On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious recipes to tempt you to get roasting:


Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Pasta alla Ghetto Fabuloso


When I saw this week's Food Network's Sensational Sides Calendar was "things in the panty," I got excited. I love the challenge creating of what I affectionately refer as ghetto or welfare meals, especially something relatively healthy. I thought about it for a couple of days. Hm, I always have my special Italian gluten-free pastas that I mail-order, some type of canned fish, shallots (I prefer their subtle sweetness over onions), and frozen peas are guaranteed to be found in my freezer. Just by chance I had some hothouse tomatoes and parsley, too. Yes, I can make some fabulous pasta using these ingredients. When I visited Venice, Italy I learned that "Ghetto" was coined there for the Jewish neighborhood I was renting an apartment (right on the canal about the fish market, which got loud and stinky in the morning.) What an amazing experience. So, yeah this creation is inspired by this trip to Venice, hence, "Pasta alla Ghetto Fabuloso." If you don't have these exact ingredients, improvise. Make it your own and own it.

Ingredients:
  • 1 package of pasta of your choice (I used Le Venezian Corn Pasta Eliche)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 large shallot (or 1 small onion), finely chopped
  • 1 cup of frozen peas (or an frozen veggie, corn would work well, too)
  • 1 can (14.75oz) salmon (I used it w/ bones and all for extra texture and calcium. Any canned fish will work)
  • 3 small/medium hot house tomatoes or ~12 cherry tomatoes
  • salt, pepper, oregano (optional) to taste
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian Parsley
  • 2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese (optional, it's lactose-free!)
Directions:
Preheat (toaster) oven to broil. Cut up the tomatoes: in 8 sections for large tomatoes, length-wise; or in half length-wise for cherry tomatoes. Place cut side up onto an aluminum-lined small sheet, sprinkle with salt and broil until browned, about 10-15 minutes. Keep an eye on them or they'll burn.

In a large saute/fry pan, heat up olive oil over low/medium heat. Add in the finely chopped shallots or onions. Stir frequently until transparent and start to brown a little bit. At this point, add in the frozen peas with stirring. Allow to thaw out. Then add in the salmon (or fish of your choice), broken up in chunks, liquid and all. Make sure to taste it for seasoning. It may not need salt if using say anchovies. Add in salt, pepper, oregano, even chili flakes to however you are liking the tasting. Add in most of the parsley and reserve a little for garnish.

Meanwhile, boil well-salted water in a large sauce pan over high heat. Once boiling, all in the pasta cook per the instructions on package. Cook until al dente, firm to the tooth. Yes, you must try it. Immediately drain.

Toss all three together: the pasta, everything in the saute pan, and the tomatoes. Serve in a nice pasta bowl. Garnish as you would like with parsley, chives, pecorino, use your imagination. Makes 4-6 servings. Buon appetito!

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Sensational Sides Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The spring food we're focusing on here is  "things in the panty." On twitter, we're tagging #SensationalSides. Here are other delicious recipes to help realize we all have items in our pantry to create something delicious:




Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Individual Goat Cheese Mac & Cheese (gluten-free, lactose-free)


Mac & cheese is the ultimate comfort food. While cooking for a personal chef client of mine who was also lactose-intolerant (in addition to Celiac), I discovered the joys of working with goat butter and goat milk. All goat and sheep milk products are naturally lactose-free. Goat cheese mac & cheese was a reoccurring dish for his menus. In this version, I spiffed it up a bit with sweated shallots and chopped Italian parsley. No, no orange food coloring in this version to make it "cheesier". I used my favorite Italian corn pasta made by Le Veniziane. The taste, texture, and appearance of Le Veniziane proves to be the best time after time for me. I start by making a roux with goat butter and potato starch while sweating the shallots. Do not be tempted to use tapioca starch, the texture turns snotty. Make the base cheese sauce using goat milk and any goat cheeses of your choice. I used goat cheddar with a small amount of smoked goat cheese. Do NOT used fresh goat cheese aka cherve. It can impart a chalky texture. For the topping, I love to process instant mashed potato flakes with melted goat butter and seasonings. Such a delight, I promise you will never long for breadcrumbs. Ever. Again.

Now that I'm single and minding my portions with more awareness, I really like the idea of portioning out the six servings into individual ramekins. I only baked one in a toaster oven for myself, covered the remaining ramekins and split between the fridge and freezer. Either way, just pop them into the toaster oven to bake off for easy weeknight dinner or for visiting friends for dinner. Makes cleanup way easier, too. And using the toaster oven saves energy and time. I feel toaster overs are underrated. In my mind, they are adult Easy-Bake ovens. I hope you make and enjoy this recipe!

Ingredients:
  • 1 package (9 oz) of Le Veneniane Pipe Rigate or other GF pasta of your choice
  • 45 grams (~1.5 tablespoons) goat butter
  • 45 grams (~1.5 tablespoons) potato starch
  • 1 medium shallot chopped fine
  • seasonings to taste: salt, white pepper, nutmeg, garlic powder, cayenne
  • 2 cups of goat milk (whole or low fat)
  • 8 oz of firm goat cheese(s) of your choice, grated (cheddar types work the best)
  • 1/4 bunch of fresh parsley leaves chopped fine
  • Topping: 1 cup instant mashed potato flakes + 2 tablespoons goat butter + seasonings as above
Directions:

Heat up a large sauce pan over medium to low heat. Add in the goat butter and potato starch, stir continuously with a whisk. Once the butter has melted, add in the chopped shallots. Keep on whisking. Once the shallots have become transparent and roux is barely golden in color, remove from heat.

At this time, also get a large pot of salted water boiling for the pasta. Boil the pasta shy of the time instructed on package. We want the pasta more on the firm side of al dente since it will cook more in the oven. Strain and put aside with a small reserve of the pasta water if needed to loosen up the sauce.

Heat up the goat milk in the microwave for 2 minutes. Turn the roux back to the lowest heat. Slowly pour in the heated goat milk with constant and thorough whisking. Once incorporated, turn up the heat to low-medium. The bechamel sauce should thicken up and come to a slight boil after a couple of minutes. Don't forget to stir constantly for no clumps. Turn the heat down again to low and add in all the goat cheese(s) at once. It will take a few minute for it to incorporate with stirring. Then add in the chopped parsley. Taste the sauce for seasonings and adjust as needed.

Add in the pasta to now what is the mornay cheese sauce. Use a large wooden/silicone spoon to fold the pasta and sauce together until evenly distributed. If it is really thick, add in a little of the reserved pasta water as needed. Divide up the mac & cheese amongst 6 ramekins. In a mini food processor: grind the potato flakes with the seasoning until the texture is fine. Add in the melted goat butter and pulse until uniform. Top all the mac & cheeses with this topping. If not cooking immediately, cover tightly with plastic wrap and store in freezer or fridge. Cook uncovered in a 375F oven for 15 minutes or until the topping is a golden brown.

-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Comfort Food Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The comfort food we're focusing on here is comforting grilled cheese. Here are other delicious recipes to help keep you warm:

Jeanette's Healthy Living: Grilled Cheese With Kale Artichoke Pumpkin Seed Pesto
Cooking With Elise: Inside-Out Grilled Cheese With Bacon
Red or Green?: Grilled Cheese Sandwiches Red or Green-Style
Napa Farmhouse 1885: Grilled Ham and Cheese Sandwiches
Weelicious: Kentucky Hot Brown Panini
Virtually Homemade: Grilled Cheddar, Apple and Arugula Sandwich
Devour: Caramelized Onion Grilled Cheese
Thursday Night Dinner: Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup
The Heritage Cook: Open Faced Grilled Halloumi Sandwiches
Big Girls, Small Kitchen: Muhammara Grilled Cheese
Daily*Dishin: Grilled Jarlsberg and Black Forest Ham With a Surprise
FN Dish: Grilled Cheese Goes Beyond Cheese
Feed Me Phoebe: Mexi Grilled Cheese With Avocado, Pepper Jack and Refried Black Beans

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Chinese Style Cucumbers


There's a particular popular Chinese restaurant chain that makes the best cucumber salad that my husband and I always share. And fight over. These are so light, cool, and refreshing. Even better, so easy to make at home with only a few ingredients. It only takes five minutes to make this tasty cucumber salad. I use English cucumbers since they have minimal seeds. Remember, keep that skin on for maximum nutritional content and awesome color appeal, and less work.

Chinese Style Cucumbers:

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon (gluten-free) soy sauce or tamari (I like San-J)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon agave syrup
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon chili sauce of your choice (I used Sambal)
1 English cucumber
1 teaspoon sesame seeds (white &/or black)

Directions:
  •  In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, agave, sesame oil, and chili sauce.
  • Cut the ends off the cucumber. Cut into quarters length-wise and then cut into 1/2 inch pieces. Place into bowl with sauce and toss until covered.
  • Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top and enjoy immediately.
-Erin Swing
The Sensitive Epicure

This is part of Food Network's Summer Fest. Check out The FN Dish. The seasonal produce we're focusing on here is the humble cucumber! We all need to keep cool as a cucumber with the peak of hot summer upon us.  Here are other delicious features on cucumbers:

What's Gaby Cooking: Cucumber, Herb and Pita Salad
Ingredients, Inc.: Easiest Cucumber Salad
Virtually Homemade: Cucumber Strawberry Cooler
From My Corner of Saratoga: Marinated Cucumber Salad
The Cultural Dish: Pasta With Roasted Shrimp and Cucumbers
Daily*Dishin: Southern Benedictine - Creamy Cucumber Spread
Delicious Lean: Cucumber Jicama Salad
Napa Farmhouse 1885: Cucumber and Avocado Open-Face Sandwiches
And Love It, Too: Fermented Spicy Garlic-Dill Cukes and Zukes
FN Dish: No-Cook Cucumber Recipes
Cooking With Elise: Wedge Salad With Cucumber-Ranch Dressing

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

English Sandwich Bread (gluten-free & egg-free)



Bread remains the holy grail in the gluten-free world. With good reason. Gluten proves critical in achieving everything we know as bread. Karen of "Cooking Gluten-Free!" posed us the bread challenge this month for the brave and few who are willing to have a many failures before producing a success one can be happy with. In professional baking, I was taught that there are two kinds of bread: a lean yeast dough, in which no fat, oil, nor eggs are used like baguette, boule, rolls etc.; and a lean yeast bread which does have fat and/or oil like brioche, challah, etc. For those of us developing recipes for gluten-free breads that are palatable with a good texture, we will use anything we can.

The Gluten-Free Ratio Rally is a group of GF bloggers, rallied by Shauna of GlutenFreeGirl.com, where we put our on spin a a culinary standard. These culinary standards are known formulas, ratios, that professionals use. The caveat is that everything is done by weight, since weight is more standardized and much more accurate than measuring by volume. This is the foundation of the GFreeRally as started and explained by Gluten-Free Girl here. The book that we base our ratios is Michael Ruhlman's Ratio. The ratio for bread he defines as 5 parts flour : 3 parts water, with a scant amount of yeast and salt. My ratio for this bread was 2 parts flour : 3 parts water. However, it's not that cut and dry. Now, time for the science:

Let's talk about the properties of gluten in bread. Gluten plays several different roles. Of course, we know it builds the elasticity and chewiness of the dough. Imagine a ball of intertwined rubber bands; that is how gluten behaves. Therein, imagine how that tight gluten network acts as a selective membrane, retaining the carbon dioxide that is produced in fermentation. While baking the gluten network slowly releases water as vapor in the baking process. These both result in the air pockets in crumb. Another important aspect of gluten is how it serves as the outer member, that is, the crust. When making a gluten-free bread, all of these properties need to be mimicked obviously without using gluten. The caveat is that there is nothing out there exactly like gluten.

Yes, there are gums such as xanthan and guar. Gums act as rheology modifiers, that is, they will thicken water-based batters and doughs. They are not elastic and plastic in the same way that gluten is. Yes, by definition xanthan can act "pseudoplastic" in a liquid medium (think store-bought salad dressings) but this property disappears once baked (into a solid). They prevent the ingredients from separating, keeping everything cohesive. Both are very effective at low concentrations, 0.5% or lower (for xanthan) by weight. Xanthan is effective at room temperature, but guar needs a little heat to activate. Keep in mind that guar gum degrades in a low pH and high temperature environment.

Ways to build in gluten-like properties is a fine balance of what every ingredient brings in to the final recipe/formulation. Yes, a gellant or thickener I find critical whether it's a gum or a gellant such as flaxseed/linseed, chia seed, or hemp seed. Another aid I rely on is a type of colloid, keeping everything evenly distributed in both the wet form and after it's baked. Psyllium husk is a very effective hydrocolloid, as well as adding fiber. Other great hydrocolloids are agar, gelatin, carrageenan, pectin, gums (xanthan, guar, locust bean), cellulose, alginate, and starch (corn, potato, tapioca, etc.).

Different flours, starches, materials/ingredients have different absorption rates and capacities. It varies greatly, as I'm sure the ratios we all came up with are different. A good example we can all relate to is the amount of water it takes to cook white rice versus brown rice. Generally speaking, gluten-free ingredients require more water than the "regular" gluten-filled counterpart for the same consistency. When switching out ingredients, adjusting the liquid is usually needed. This can play a big role in how wet or dry the crumb is. I know I have seen extremes at both ends of the spectrum of gluten-free breads. It takes a lot of fine tuning to get the how system right.


In making gluten-free bread, the 12-steps for bread-making can be reduced down to only 6 steps. Since there is no gluten to work up and relax, there is no work involved there. Since the gluten-free system is more delicate, not needing to punch out excess gas, Once it the dough is mixed, it can be panned/shaped only once to leave for one solid proofing time before heading straight into the hot oven for baking. 



My bread for this challenge is an English style sandwich bread. What makes it so? First off, this is recipe that has been modified by British pastry chef extraordinaire, Dan Lepard. (I made a couple of modifications: added more water to make into a sandwich bread rather than more of a rustic bread, requiring a bread pan; the amount of flax, and grinding it; and an option to use a (non-diary) milk with a touch of vinegar; and modifications in the procedure.) Second, throughout the UK, Ireland, and Europe, all the gluten-free bread is based on cornflour also know as cornstarch here in the USA. Cornstarch works wonders for getting the moisture content just right. This bread is big, fluffy, chewy, satisfying, elegant. What makes it elegant, different? The crumb is lavender! Yes, a beautiful light purple interior that sets it apart. It looks great for a sandwich. What makes is lavender? There's a complex reaction between trace amounts of iodine with starch, known as the iodine test, which Dan helped give me this insight. I made several different iterations of using non-iodized salt, changing my diary from cow to goat (goat is supposed to be iodine-free), to cutting out the salt all together. Turns out there's a significant amount of iodine in diary products. This reaction is so sensitive, requires only 0.00002M amount of iodine, that just thinking about iodine will turn is lavender. Why not embrace it, be different. Just like those of us who have to eat gluten-free. Different can be good, very good.

Ingredients:
(Please refer to Dan Lepard's Original Recipe in BBC Food) See below for modifications:

30 grams golden flax seeds (whole)
10 grams SAF yeast
5 grams sugar
675 grams/mL warm water
100 grams natural plain yogurt (or milk + 20 grams cider vinegar) of your choice
7 grams (1 teaspoon) non-iodized salt

Directions:
(Please refer to Dan Lepard's Original Recipe in BBC Food) See below for modifications: 
  • Heat the oven to 350F and toast the flax seeds for 8-10 minutes until they darken slightly. Grind immediately in a small processor, mortar/pestle, etc. Then whisk into the liquids mixture, below. They will have this beautiful, deep, nutty aroma. Do NOT use flax meal, as for it can go rancid quickly. And the quality of how the flax plays to overall quality of bread is critical.
  • In a large bowl, scale in the yeast, sugar, yogurt, and water. Whisk well. Add in the toasted, ground, flax meal. Whisk again. Whisk in the olive oil.
  • In a separate large bowl, scale in the cornflour, salt, and psyllium. Mix well.
  • Add the liquids to the flours with immediate and thorough mixing for about 5 minutes. At first it will be very liquid/runny, but will build up to be very thick.
  • Turn into an oil-sprayed/coated, large bread pan. Level out the dough. Put a thin coat of olive oil on top and cover with plastic wrap in a way so it can expand, but covered and no excess air. (Fermentation does not like air).
  • Allow to proof/ferment at room temperature for 60 minutes.
  • At this point, preheat the oven to 450F (make sure you have an oven thermometer to double check your oven temperature), and allow the bread to proof for an additional 15-30 minutes during the pre-heat.
  • Remove the plastic wrap, and place in the center of the hot oven. Bake for 60 minutes. Do NOT open the oven door. Not even a tiny crack! All this heat is critical to the initial rise of the bread. Every time you open the oven door, 50 to 100 degrees are lost.
  • Cool on wire rack before slicing. Don't be tempted to cut into it sooner, it will be gooey. The final texture works its way well into the cooling process. Cut and enjoy! If storing, cut as desired, store frozen in airtight container. 
Also, check out Dan Lepard's books on Amazon.com. Especially his new one, Short & Sweet.
    -Erin Swing
    The Sensitive Epicure

    Head on over to Karen's host post to see her amazing bread and all the other fantastic recipes brought to you by rally participants this month! Thanks again Karen for hosting a challenge that is difficult but so worth it! Also, if you're on Twitter, search #GFreeRally

    ~Aunt Mae (aka ~Mrs. R) | Honey From Flinty Rocks: Millet Chia Bread & Variations
    Adina | Gluten Free Travelette: Seedy Sandwich Bread
    Angela | Angela's Kitchen: Our Family's Basic Gluten Free Dairy Free Bread   
    Brooke | B & the boy!: Buckwheat-Oat Bread   
    Charissa | Zest Bakery: Cherry Pecan Pot Bread, Gluten Free
    Claire | This Gluten-Free Life: German Vollkornbrot (Seeded Bread)
    Jenn | Jenn Cuisine: Gluten Free Boule
    Jonathan | The Canary Files: Gluten-Free, Vegan Mediterranean Soda Bread
    Karen | Cooking Gluten Free: Gluten Free Sandwich Bread and Gluten Free Naan
    Meaghan | The Wicked Good Vegan: Vegan Gluten-Free Bread
    Meg | Gluten-Free Boulangerie: Ciabatta (gluten-free, egg-free/vegan)
    Monika | Chew on This!: Amaranth Skillet Flatbreads, Amaranth Mini Pita Rounds
    Morri | Meals with Morri: No Knead Sun-dried Tomato & Basil Flatbread (yeast free & grain free)
    Pete & Kelli | No Gluten, No Problem: Gluten-Free Challah
    Rachel / The Crispy Cook: Gluten Free Chickpea Sandwich Bread
    Tara | A Baking Life: Gluten-Free Sandwich Bread & Boule
    TR | No One Likes Crumbley Cookies: Gluten Free White Bread

    Thursday, May 3, 2012

    Kale Salad with Lemon, Pecorino Romano, and Toasted Walnuts


    Only in the past couple of years have I discovered how awesome kale is. When talking about dark leafy greens, the nutritional powerhouse that is kale resides on top. My favorite way to prepare kale had been making chips out of them. The standard procedure consisted of lightly coating the whole kale leaves, stalk removed, season, and bake in oven at low temperature until crisp. Delicious, but too oily for me to call healthy. Then I kept hearing more about kale salad, where the kale is broken down by acid and then dressed. Hm. I usually steer clear of putting any acid into any green vegetables, knowing that breaks down chlorophyll, along with the nutritional content and flavor, as well as transforming it into a drab olive green.

    Somehow kale salad works on a few different levels. First off, it is delicious. The preparation proves to be super easy without having to cook anything, with the exception of maybe toasting some nuts. This salad gets better upon refrigeration, whereas traditional salads which turn to mush. Even after 4 days of sitting in the fridge, it tasted just as fresh as the first day I made it. I decided to use an Italian approach to this salad, using lemon juice for the acid, lemon zest for brightness, Pecorino Romano cheese (sheep milk, lactose-free), toasted walnuts, and olive oil. My favorite cheese right now is Pecorino Romano, with its perfect balance of salty with that distinctive sheep cheese flavor. This kale salad pairs very well with my socca with za'atar, both in flavors and combining to make a complete protein.

    Ingredients:
    1 bunch of Lacinato/dinosaur kale
    2 lemons, juice of (zest before juicing)
    1 lemon, zest of
    1 garlic clove, grated
    1/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
    1/2 cup toasted walnuts, chopped
    2 tablespoons olive oil
    salt, pepper, chili flakes to taste

    Procedure:
    Wash the kale well. Remove stalk, and chiffonade into thin strips. Place in a large (preferably glass) bowl. Zest one of the lemons, and put aside. Juice both lemons, put 1/2 the juice in with the kale (the other 1/2 set aside) and massage thoroughly with clean hands. Cover bowl and place in fridge.

    In a small bowl, combine the remaining lemon juice, the lemon zest, grated garlic, romano cheese, walnuts, olive oil, salt, pepper, and chili flake. Mix and taste. Adjust seasonings for you preference. Add this dressing to the messaged kale and toss well until completely combined. Store in fridge and serve as needed. Makes 4-6 servings. That simple.

    -Erin Swing
    The Sensitive Epicure

    Wednesday, April 4, 2012

    Mexican Cocoa Brownies with an Almond & Pepitas Crust


    When I think of brownies, I think of dense, fudge-y, chocolate "cake" with that thin layer on top. I love that thin layer on top. So in developing a recipe for a complex brownie, I made sure nothing would be on top. What is that thin layer? People call it a meringue layer: the proteins from the egg whites combining with the sugar and migrating to the top during the baking process. However, I have seen this with vegan brownie recipes I have made. Maybe in general, a film of protein and sugar forming on top. A syneresis as I would call it as a scientist. (A good example is the liquid whey that separates out on top of yogurt.)

    Mary Fran of FrannyCakes hosted this month's Gluten-Free Ratio Rally with brownies as the challenge. The Gluten-Free Ratio Rally is a group of GF bloggers, rallied by Shauna of GlutenFreeGirl.com, where we put our on spin a a culinary standard. These culinary standards are known formulas, ratios, that professionals use. The caveat is that everything is done by weight, since weight is more standardized and much more accurate than measuring by volume. This is the foundation of the GFreeRally as started and explained by Gluten-Free Girl here. The book that we base our ratios is Michael Ruhlman's Ratio. Brownies did not have a predefined ratio by Ruhlman. And since a major ingredient is chocolate with its many forms (solids and cocoa), chocolate needs a special ratio unto itself.

    I decided to go the Mexican spiced chocolate route, using cinnamon, chilis, coffee, nuts, and seeds to add depth and complexity. But at first, I pondered, "How am I going to incorporate the seeds and nuts?" I know, make a crust. This will give a unique texture to the brownies without interfering with that special thin meringue layer and giving an emphasis on what I chose: marcona almonds and pepitas. The marcona almonds are skin-free and make it easier to work with. Given, the crust makes for more work and a double bake with crisping up the crust first, cooling, then adding in the brown batter. So. Worth. It. I bet you have never had a brown like this. My friends told me this is their new favorite. The ratio of these brownie were (roughly) 2 parts eggs : 4 parts sugar : 2 parts butter : 1 part cocoa powder : 0.6 parts flour.

    Ingredients:
    Crust:
    50 grams marcona almonds
    50 grams pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
    25 grams brown sugar
    25 grams butter, melted and cooled slightly
    1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
    dash of chipotle powder, cayenne
    salt to tast

    Brownies:
    200 grams sugar
    200 grams brown sugar
    113 grams natural cocoa powder
    30 grams GF oat flour
    30 grams tapioca flour
    1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
    2 teaspoons cinnamon, ground
    1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder
    1/8 teaspoon cayenne powder
    2 teaspoons Nescafe instant coffee
    2 teaspoons Mexican vanilla (if possible)
    4 large eggs (200 grams), room temperature, mixed well
    226 grams (2 sticks) butter, melted and cooled


    Procedure:
    Crust:
    • Preheat oven to 325F.
    • In a processor, combine the almonds, pepitas, brown sugar, seasonings and pulse until coarse like gravel. Add in the melted butter and pulse again until completely incorporated.
    • Turn out into brownie pan (8"x8") into a thin, 1/4", layer and pack well.
    • Bake for about 20 minutes, until lightly golden brown.
    • Remove from oven and allow to cool.
    Brownies:
    • In a large bowl, mix together the sugar, brown sugar, cocoa powder, flours, seasonings (all the dry ingredients) and mix very thoroughly.
    • Add in the eggs, butter, and vanilla all at once and mix with a wooden or silicone spoon until uniform.
    • Pour the batter evenly and slowly onto the cooled almond and pepitas crust. 
    • Bake for about 35 minutes or until only a tiny amount of chocolate is visible when a toothpick is inserted and removed from the center.
    • Cool on a rack and cut when mostly cooled. Store in a tightly-sealed container in the fridge.
    Trust me, they disappear fast.

    -Erin Swing
    The Sensitive Epicure

    Head on over to Mary Fran's host post to see her amazing popovers and all the other fantastic recipes brought to you by rally participants this month! Thanks again Mary Fran for hosting a chocolate-y delicious challenge! Also, if you're on Twitter, search #GFreeRally

    Adina from Gluten Free Travelette made Chocolate Brownie Pie with Orange Zest
    Angela from Angela's Kitchen made Gluten & Dairy Free Cream Egg Brownies
    Brooke from B & the boy! made Triple Chocolate Brownies
    Caitlin from {Gluten Free} Nom Nom Nom made Peppermint Brownie Bars
    Caleigh from Gluten Free[k] made White chocolate and marshmallow brownies
    Caneel from Mama Me Gluten Free made Triple chocolate brownies
    Charissa Luke from Zest Bakery made Slutty gluten-free brownies
    Claire from My Gluten Free Home PB&J Brownie Whoopee Pies
    Claire from This Gluten-Free Life made St. Patty's Day Marshmallow Swirl Brownies
    gretchen from kumquat made salted caramel brownies
    Heather from Discovering the Extraordinary made Nutmeg Blondies
    Irvin from Eat the Love made Blueberry Citrus Marble Brownies
    Jean from Gluten-Free Doctor Recipes made Blue Ribbon Brownies
    Jenn Cuisine made Grain free brownies with no-bake ricotta cheesecake cream
    Jonathan from The Canary Files made Vegan Marbled Banana Walnut Brownies
    Karen from Cooking Gluten Free! made GF Chewy Crackled Top Brownies with Raspberry Puree
    Mary Fran from FrannyCakes made Gluten-Free Hazelnut (Nutella) Brownies
    Morri from Meals with Morri made Oaxacan Brownies & Mesquite Cacao Blondies
    ~Mrs. R from Honey From Flinty Rocks made Black Bean S'More Brownies
    Pete and Kelli from No Gluten, No Problem made Caramel Mexican Chocolate Mesquite Brownies
    Rachel from The Crispy Cook made Co-Co Nut-Nut Blondies
    Shauna from Gluten-Free Girl made Gluten-Free Brownies
    Tara from A Baking Life Mint made Chocolate Flourless Brownies
    TR | No One Likes Crumbley Cookies Gluten Free Berry Fudge Brownies